The Top 20 List: Rio de Janeiro
I’ve been in Australia for more than a week and I still haven’t posted my “Top 20” list for Rio de Janeiro. If that sounds familiar it’s because I was also late in posting similar lists for Argentina, Peru and Bolivia. So without further delay, here’s my list of the top 20 things about Rio de Janeiro that I found odd, new, appealing or just plain weird.
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#20 – Rick Rolls
I doubt Rick Astley could fill a small pub in Canada but he’s still selling out stadiums in South America. I read this once but was skeptical until I saw a billboard advertising his upcoming concerts in Brazil. Later that same day I walked past the open doors of an auto repair business when I noticed a 60-ish guy standing on a rim and tire, trying to separate the tire from rim. Astley’s ‘Never Gonna Give You Up’ was playing on the shop’s sound system. I watched through the open door for a few seconds before I realized that he was doing more dancing than tire repairing. Unfortunately I didn’t have a camera with me that morning. Later I saw this album offered for sale by a street vendor who wouldn’t name the price as she didn’t think I was serious.
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#19 – Keep Calm and Drink Caipirinha
The caipirinha is Brazil’s national drink. It’s pretty sweet so I rarely had more than one a day, but I did have one most days. Gary, the bartender at Discovery Hostel Rio makes a mean version with fresh mint.
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#18 – The Starbucks Bag Strap
A sure sign that petty crime is rampant in Rio can be found in the city’s three Starbucks locations where all chairs have a heavy strap similar to a seatbelt attached to each chair. Patrons wrap both ends of the strap around the handle of their purse, bag or backpack, and then secure the ends with the extra-strength Velcro. The strap won’t secure a bag that’s left unattended but it does cut down on ‘grab and run’ crimes.
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#17 – Por Kilo Restaurants
The food isn’t anything special but there’s enough selection that you can easily find something to your taste at one of the city’s many ‘por kilo’ restaurants. Buying meals by the kilogram would seem odd to any connoisseur of Vegas buffets but at least here you get what you want without playing Portuguese Menu Roulette.
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#16 – Volkswagons
Volkswagon might still produce Westphalia vans in South America because about 1 in every 20 vehicles in Rio is an off-white VW van. Another 10% are multi-coloured Beatles. Most are in excellent shape.
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#15 – Mosaic Sidewalks
Rio is famous for its mosaic tile sidewalks. Some are simply cream coloured tiles but in many parts of the city you see a distinctive ‘wave’ pattern. Unlike Toronto’s concrete sidewalks that are permanently scarred by utility patches, the mosaic tiles in Rio mask all repairs. Tree roots gently lift sections of the sidewalk rather than cracking large concrete slabs. They may not work in a climate prone to periods of freeze-and-thaw but they sure work nicely here.
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#14 – Indifferent Store Clerks
I stood in line many times while clerks chatted amongst themselves. Just before setting out for the airport I stopped to buy gum and a pad of writing paper. The clerk dug my change out of the till, then started a conversation with the adjacent clerk for what seemed like 10 minutes but was probably more like one minute. Still, that’s a long time when you’re just standing there and you don’t understand the conversation. The customer rarely comes first in Brazil.
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#13 – Public Caning
I saw people re-caning chairs at several intersections in Lapa and Ipanema. There’s nothing like a high-profile and rent-free workplace, I suppose.
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#12 – Water Delivery Bikes
I was told that Rio’s water is safe to drink yet most homes and businesses have bottled water delivered by bicycle couriers. I went through my file looking for a photo of a three-wheeled water delivery bike. All I could find were these beer delivery bikes. Not sure what that says.
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#11 – Police Cars with Lights
In Brazil the police cars leave their flashing red lights on at all times. In parts of Argentina they used blue lights. Either way, you can spot a police car from blocks away should you ever need one. I’m sure the intent is to deter street crime even though it didn’t seem to be working in Ipanema.
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#10 – Filet Mignon
Even the cheapest lunch counters offer ‘filet mignon’ on their menus. I’m not sure if this is the actual cut of beef that you or I know as filet mignon or a generic term for beef, as it can range from tough as leather to absolutely superb.
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#9 – The Third Bunk
Rio’s lovely old mansions with 12 and 14’ high ceilings are nice but they also allow hostel owners to add a third bunk. I had the top bunk for 4 days at this hostel and it wasn’t an issue. However, few people sleep as soundly as I do and when you’re stacked three high the least amount of movement down below is greatly magnified on the top bunk. It’s the same principle that led to toothpicks in clubhouse sandwiches.
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#8 – Big Beer, Small Glass
Like Peru, Bolivia and Argentina, the 600ml bottles of beer are most popular in Brazil. A waiter will open the bottle for you, place it in a thermal sleeve and pour your first 6-ounce glass. No matter how hot the patio, you never have to worry about warm beer when its poured in “two-swallow” servings.
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#7 – Hats, Pants, Flip Flops
I was told on Day #1 that Brazilians don’t wear hats and after three weeks in the country I didn’t see a single shop selling baseball caps. Brazilians do wear long pants on very hot days while tourists walk around in shorts. Everybody wears flip-flops or “thongs” as they tend to call them. I don’t have a photo but this is the only time you’ll ever catch me in something referred to as a thong.
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#6 – On-Demand Hot Water
Many hostels in Brazil and Argentina have on-demand water heaters built into their showerheads. The pressure won’t rival what you’d expect from a 5-star hotel shower but the hot water was unlimited. Hear that, Bolivia and Peru?
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#5 – Motorcycle Delivery
Motorcycle delivery drivers are common throughout South American but they’re a bit different in Rio. In other countries I saw motorcycles fitted with a fiberglass box to hold the pizza, ice cream, groceries, etc. In Rio de Janeiro the delivery drivers stay with the bike at all times while a passenger rides along with a large soft-sided cooler bag strapped to his back. Phone your order in to McDonalds or Little Caesars in Copacabana and they’ll deliver right to your beach chair.
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#4 – Scrap Collectors
In Buenos Aires there are hundreds or possibly thousands of scrap paper collectors roaming the streets 24/7. In Rio the market for scrap metal is apparently much stronger. Guys with large wheeled carts patrol the streets in search of any old appliances that have been set out, broken fencing, metal downspouts that aren’t securely fastened to buildings, cars with metal hubcaps, etc.
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#3 – Accessibility
Most public buildings in Rio are 100% accessible. This photo shows the entrance to the subway system. There’s also an elevator for those who might find this ramp a bit steep.
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#2 – Interesting Architecture
I took a walking tour around the area where the Brazilian Petrol (Petrobras) headquarters sits in downtown Rio. I thought that it was “interesting” but hardly “world class” as was implied by the tour guide. It doesn’t offend yet it’s far from boring, I thought. Later the guide told us that it was recently voted #7 on a list of The World’s Top Ten Ugliest Buildings. That’s apparently what she meant by world class.
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#1 – Gentrification
There’s no shortage of beautiful but derelict buildings in Rio. Many in the San Telmo, Flamengo and Lapa neighbourhoods are currently being restored. Is there a surer sign that the Olympics are coming to town?
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As an added bonus, here’s a link to one of my favourite Nick Lowe songs. If you were a Rick Astley fan and offended by Item #20 on this list, I’d suggest skipping this song. All others will probably enjoy it.
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One Response to “The Top 20 List: Rio de Janeiro”
Thank you for posting your pictures Mike! They brought back memories from when I visited Rio. My wife is from Sao Paulo. I remember the water deliveries by bicycle, and pizza deliveries by motorcycle.