Camino Trip Notes: Stage 32 (Cebreiro to Triacastela)

Friday, May 20, 2016

Distance: 20.3 km

5:00 – I’m not sure who set my alarm for 5:00 but I’m sure it wasn’t me.   I’ll get up at 6:00.  

6:15 – I’m up and I feel much better with that extra hour of sleep. I’ve been dreaming though.  In the dream it’s about 1980 and I’m with my highschool friend Dan and his girlfriend Kristi and we are standing in the parking lot of a Canadian Tire in Scarborough.  Dan’s cousin Len lives nearby and he runs over from his house to warn us about the mechanic at this place.  He sets cars on fire, according to Len.  I’m  worried because I have just dropped off my dad’s ’74 Thunderbird for an oil change.  The dream ends with another friend, Joey Gallo, seated on a stool in the parking lot.  He’s wearing a white smock and Kristi is taking clippers to his trademark Afro.  A car is fully engulfed in flames in the background.  I’m sure it’s the T-bird.  Everyone ignores the raging inferno but me.  I’m in deep trouble.

I have no idea what this means.  Any thought?  Anyone?

7:10 – The guidebooks warm that most of this day will be downhill, but with loose footing it’s easy to slip and many a twisted ankle is suffered on this stage.  I can see how one could be distracted by the view.

8:00 – That’s not the sea in the distance but rather fog or low clouds in a valley to the north of Cebreiro. 

The regional government of Galicia has installed concrete markers every 500 meters or so.   

The hamlet of Linares has six houses and 10 inhabitants but a history that dates back to the 8th century.  

After Linares there is a long uphill stretch until you reach the famous bronze statue of a pilgrim at Alto do San Roque. Limestone used in the cathedral in Santiago was mined near Linares and early pilgrims were encouraged to take a piece of stone along with them, if only to say that they helped build the great cathedral.  

Shortly after leaving the village of Padornelo I began the last climb of the day.  At 1337 meters, Alto do Poio is the highest point between here and Santiago.

10:58 – I stopped for water in the village of Hospital. They have a small but very cool old bar and an even smaller and older church but not much else. 

 Some of these towns blend together but I have passed through Fonfria, Biduedo, Filloval, As Pasantes, and Ramil if not three or four more before arriving in Triacastela.

16:50 – I have arrived in the booming metropolis of Triacastela (population 700).  The town dates from the 9th century.  Although the name means “Three Castles” there are no longer any castles and in fact there’s scant evidence that a castle ever did exist.

17:02 – A women by the name of Olga has welcomed me into her neat and tidy little guesthouse.  It’s freezing cold inside the old stone building but at least I get my own room with three tiny beds for 15€. Just dont call me Goldilocks.

17:10 – Olga returns and makes it clear that I am to use “a sack” which I take to mean a sleeping bag.  She doesn’t do laundry for a measly 15€.

20:45 – I found the lone ATM in Triacastela and later ran into Matt from Colorado.  After a few issues with his “plastic leg” (his words) he’s cutting back to 10km a day. Tomorrow we have a choice of two routes to Sarria.  One is 18km and hilly while the other is 25km and relatively flat but passes one of the largest and oldest monasteries in Spain.  If Matt and his prosthetic leg can handlr the long route, I guess I had better stop complaining and get in line behind him.

4 Responses to “Camino Trip Notes: Stage 32 (Cebreiro to Triacastela)”

  1. hillerup1962

    Send that dream to Tarantino for a movie scene. Maybe Dan & Joey can be in it. Could mean your next career as a screenwriter? Or just writer – hoping you will publish your journey in some form.

    • 100Saturdays

      I’ve met quite a few Danes in the last few days, Paul. I didn’t know there were that many. They’re definitely disproportionately represented on the Camino, as are Canadians. And you’re right, the dream was very Tarantinoesque.

  2. Benson+Fox

    I think the dream means you are starting to want to stop walking, and to hang out with some friends (as opposed to friendly strangers). But the car is burnt (keep walking) and the friends have changed (good-by afro) so your path is set… to Santiago (which at a stretch you could link to the T-bird smoke with the flying incense burner in the cathedral!)


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