Camino Finisterre Trip Notes: Stage 3 (Vilaserio to Lagrosa)

Wednesday, June 1, 2016
Distance: 16 km
6:47 – I have some good news: I left the bar last night under my own power and at a leisurely pace to boot. (As opposed to being tossed out, carried out, or being seen running and screaming.)
In the interest of my own health and well being I have decided against publishing “Eh Babe’s” real name. I think it’s safe to report that he lived most of his life in Hamilton, Ontario, and only recently moved to rural New Brunswick. He met his current girlfriend a few weeks ago in Fredericton. She may be in the, ah, entertainment industry. That’s about all they would say about life in Canada. We made small talk until I finished a 20 ounce beer. I wanted to ask if he had any thoughts on Corrections Canada or the Federal Witness Protection Program but for a change I bit my tongue. Yes, I took several surreptitious photos. No, I’m not posting them.
8:57 – I’ve been walking with this skinny dude for the last two hours. He’s nice enough but he can’t sing.
11:50 – I was sitting on a stone wall, eating cherries that I bought yesterday, when an old man appeared out of the blue. He was carrying a sickle. I think I surprised him as much as he surprised me so I didn’t get a good photo.
11:55 – I just watched as a small van stopped at the end of a farm lane while the driver leaned on the horn. He was delivering bread.
15:45 – This is the hottest day I’ve experienced since January when I was in Cambodia. I’ll stop at the next bar – but only if I’m sure that “Eh Babe” isn’t inside. I overheard two other groups of people talking about him this morning. It sounds like he demanded a bed at a small pension a few nights ago and the owner made some arrangement even though the place was already full.
16:00 – I was about to leave for Hospital (a town about 6 km from here) when people on the patio came rushing in and asked if there were still any beds left. Apparently they had phoned ahead and found that every bed in Hospital is taken. It’s another 16 km to Cee and none of us feel like going that far tonight. Thankfully they had room for all eight.
19:50 – Dinner was quite the experience. The woman running the bar is loud and grumpy to begin with (not uncommon in Spain) but she’s short staffed tonight and I think she could lose it any second. Her cook walked out an hour ago only to return 30 minutes later. The owner and the cook haven’t spoken for the last half hour. You’d think the bar might be a little calmer during the standoff but noooo – the owner is talking to herself and she’s not happy. I don’t know if it’s a good sign or not but the cook has taken all the kitchen knives off the magnetic rack that hangs behind the bar. I’m sure I was safer swapping stories with Eh Babe.
4 Responses to “Camino Finisterre Trip Notes: Stage 3 (Vilaserio to Lagrosa)”
Mike great stories I only hope you are going to write a book I have enjoyed all the post a friend of mine asked me how many pairs of shoes you have gone through . Anyway hope you write a book.
Hi Mike. I have gone through four pairs of Nikes but I’m still using the Merrill hiking boots that I bought in Toronto 2013! They’re awesome. As for the book, don’t hold your breath. It’s pretty tough to sell a book these days unless you’re an established author of put up the money yourself.
It would be great if you could loved every one of your stories hope you kept all your notes .
The blog is my notes!